So, I have been a bit busy since Sunday which has left me with little time to blog.
I haven't even been climbing, because I have been working most days.
On Sunday I miraculously made my way up my first 7c sport climb.
The strangest thing is that it wasn't really a battle, and it wasn't in incredible style.
I had been on the route a couple times, exactly a week before hand. I had maybe 4 passes at learning the moves. On Sunday I warmed up a little on the route, avoiding the first hard move. I then rested while others climbed, and when my turn came around I messed around. I couldn't remember how the moves to the first clip went. It was a mess of feet, and repeating those few moves allowed me to warm up a little again. On the 6th attempt at the start I smashed it out, through all the hard moves, a broken hold and up to the finish.
I couldn't quite believe it. Neither could the others who were there.
One of the other had broken a crucial hold, which was a point of fear when I pulled on its remains, a big crack fresh in the mind. In any case I made it to the top, clipping all the way from the second (having had the first two pre-clipped) up to a slightly extended belay to cover the final run out. I didn't know the belay had been extended though, so I still class it as a good show.
It just goes to show, you never know what you are capable of. I certainly don't. The biggest concern on the route was that you hang your back three stacked in a pocket, then a series of tenuous moves bring you to a poor hold for your right hand and a big move up locking off your left. I managed to flick some blood back into the fingers on the way, but that was literally the most tenuous part.
The route is called 'Ozone Bozo, and is a soft 7c on Garage Buttress, in Stoney Middelton in the Peak District. I will next attempt its left hand start, into the same finish at the same grade.
It is totally my style, short, sharp and just off vertical with lots of crimps and pockets.
Who knows... 8b by the end of next year? Unlikely.
There were two elements of true note to this ascent for me.
First of all, I was happy to lead the hardest bits. Considering I previously led a 6a and long before that a 6c+, that is quite a turn around in attitude. I don't know why, but I feel like I can manage that fear a little better, as long as I am clipped into the first bolt. This is a massive step in some regards, and will eventually lead to 'proper leading'. You don't lose the fear, you just learn to turn it down a bit.
The second was that, during the ascent, I was yelling take at the broken hold and breathing hard, but I felt totally outside myself for most of the process. It was only in a rest before (what I still thought was) the run out, that I tuned back in for a few moments to check all the engine lights were good. This level of focus is what I need to work on a develop, because I think it will lead me well beyond what I ever thought I was capable of. To be fair, I don't have a clue what I am capable of, and this seems to ring more true all the time.
Anyway.
Rest week (at least from climbing) this school week, with a double session on the weekend.
Happy days!
Dave Macleod has put up two very prominent posts recently. Both plugging his book which I have yet to buy, but still totally valid.
The first is about how he got from 8b to 8c+ in 18 months. The message seems to be, to get everything right before getting everything strong. This includes technique, tactics, psychology, how to handle yourself. Have everything else dialled, and then just throw in some fingerboarding.
Unfortunately, I don't have the thatcherite dole system to rely on, and I don't have time to climb all day every day. I also can't rely on my climbing EVER supporting me. Therefore, I need to do what Steve McClure suggests and find the balance. A bit of dissertation here, a bit of fingerboarding there. I need to put serious hours on the rock, but I need to compensate for the time it takes to accrue strength and power-endurance by throwing in some fingerboarding and hard wall sessions.
This is what I have been doing for a little while, and it seems to be working in my favour.
I just need to keep it up, and optimize.
Thursday, 4 December 2014
Sunday, 23 November 2014
Perceptually infinite power
Now obviously, everyone has their physical limits.
One can only apply x much force, as determined by our muscles ability to pull and our nervous systems ability to control that force when applied to situation y.
Think of it like a transistor. A pnp gate or similar. The device is rated for a maximum throughput of energy, of which the flow is controlled by another determinant (amount of energy into system). I think, the difference between our force mechanisms and a transistor is that we best apply control in recognisable patterns from feedback, and we can change how much control is required to leverage so much force. This is all relative to how you try and apply the force, and how much power you think you have, perceptually
I am sure you will see a pattern in my style of thinking, but if you can convince yourself you have a possibly infinite amount power relative to your ability to harness it, you will probably be able to kick out those extra few measures of energy, which may translate to those last 3 moves through the crux and into the victory lap. Its all about gurning, gritting the teeth and really putting the extra 99.99% of possible effort, on top of the 99.99% you are already using. This is when you can make your body do things that scare you. You surprise yourself, and can pull off those sequences that seemed impossible.
As I started up from the ledge at the pitch going up and right, I though nothing. I just had the move set I knew in my head. I had dogged through some of the harder sequence, but not move to move. The rope was in the first two bolts, so I was happy to have a go at the first hardish moves.
I started up though the first 3 clips of moves, and after a few grunts managed to hang the horrendous back-three sharp camming stacked pocket. Shocked that it held, I grimaced through the next little balance sequence, and then clipped the 4th bolt. moving left I hesitated with my feet 'how was I here'. I powered through to the split pocket, move feet, pull, 'I can't feel my left back-three', more hesitation, power out.
A standard scenario for most. If I hadn't hesitated, I probably would have made my first 7c route, on the first day of play, with little fuss. I will never be a Steve McClure. But I had really put all the beans in, chips down on the table, and made a solid effort. I pushed once again beyond what I though I was capable of. This had thrown me a little, but it is simply a case of learning to deal with it. Much like the fear. Finally today I had climbed beyond my level, above the bolts, and had accepted I was going to fall at some point or another. Much improved!
.
From my experience I feel we need to learn to do hard moves well individually, and teach the nervous system how to apply maximal force in as many given scenarios as possible. Further more, we need to teach the un/conscious versions of ourselves, to push just that much harder, every time.
I still feel that bouldering is crucial to hard climbing, of any form. Be it on any medium.
Saturday, 8 November 2014
So... that training plan.. and The Tor.
Its been a busy, busy week. But I am getting there.
Today I went back to Raven Tor for the first time since maybe April (which was a washout session).
After some pinches wall fun, we decided to actually get heads down and put some time into the powerband. I had tickled it before once or twice in passing, but had never decided to 'get on it'.
This proved highly successful, as I got a foot plan together and made it into the LH pocket which you drop into before the final section (over half way). I didn't manage the drop, but from not really having a plan at the beginning of the session and a reasonable amount of work, I am super happy with that progress. I think < 10 sessions and some slightly focussed training will see me tick this to get a F7c under my belt.
The biggest problem with working this problem, is the LH crucial slot, which is held while you do 3 RH/foot moves to a good pinch, a bad pinch and some footwork/twisting, before going LH to the pocket of the working crux. I re-adjust on this pocket, and really get the tip of my index finger into a good jam. The downside of this is that my skin takes a real beating on these moves, and working that section in so many laps caused a good hole to form.
Once the hole occured, working the problem became pointless because the handholds became painful. So I knocked that on the head and walked up the hill to join those on the weedkiller traverse.
I managed to do 5 good laps of this problem, always getting to (but not completing) the very final move to the incut jug. Every time I fell was because I didn't have the juice to commit to that last big pull, or the get in a better body position without letting go. I even got strait back on after one drop, and made it to the top jug.
From this I have realised some great progression, which coupled with time at Malham recently has made me a happy and focussed climber. You just need to ignore the sneering grit enthusiasts who will spend years punting to the 7a - b level, and just get on with climbing/training. And for those who haven't got the time to climb 24/7, training does seem to be worth the 30 - 45 mins a session it costs.
So I need to sort out a bit of bicep strength, one-arm deadhang slopers / v.slopey pinches, and start to really maintain and reduce time between harder problems. 7mins rest per go on powerband felt just about right, with 15 mins every 10 - 15 goes.
Monday will be a rest day, due to other commitments.
Tuesday will be one-arm deadhangs on the good beastmaker slopers. Classic 7on 3 off 6 sets.
Wednesday will be working on the harder indoor problems i.e. blue/yellow/white (and some top-end oranges). Limited rest for difficulty, 3 - 4 mins per attempt (4 goes at dogging a move with 45s rest between counts as one attempt in this model). 5 - 10 mins rest per 20 laps.
Thursday will be light volume and an easy lockoff session.
Friday is work, followed by the indoor boulder comp. Not to fussed, but will be good to chat to some of the better locals that I don't see so often. Plus free beer.
Saturday is work and rest.
Sunday is flexible, but work starts at 00:30 Sunday night / Monday Morning for a few hours.
The rest of Monday will probably be spent resting/doing uni work, and I may go to the wall but it isn't very likely.
The rest of the week will see a similar pattern I expect, except Friday will be a climbing day, Saturday will be rest and then should be out with Zippy on Sunday, either at Malham or at the Tor.
Coincidently, it seems that the final aim at Malham for the year 'something stupid' 7b(+really) is pretty soaked at the moment. In the instance this is the case and we show up to Malham that day, I will work on the upper part of Seventh Ardvark, into the hole on Bat Route, which from the ground is an 8b link. 4 extra moves on top of the 7b... a Font 7b+ boulder problem?
We will see...
Coincidently, I am going to start looking more at brain training for Focus. I want to develop myself better mentally, to just switch off from everything outside of the specific act of climbing this particular thing, so that I can be truly focussed and really improve. If you know of anything to help/guide this, please comment.
Also... I am starting to get psyched some more, which is always good.
Today I went back to Raven Tor for the first time since maybe April (which was a washout session).
After some pinches wall fun, we decided to actually get heads down and put some time into the powerband. I had tickled it before once or twice in passing, but had never decided to 'get on it'.
This proved highly successful, as I got a foot plan together and made it into the LH pocket which you drop into before the final section (over half way). I didn't manage the drop, but from not really having a plan at the beginning of the session and a reasonable amount of work, I am super happy with that progress. I think < 10 sessions and some slightly focussed training will see me tick this to get a F7c under my belt.
The biggest problem with working this problem, is the LH crucial slot, which is held while you do 3 RH/foot moves to a good pinch, a bad pinch and some footwork/twisting, before going LH to the pocket of the working crux. I re-adjust on this pocket, and really get the tip of my index finger into a good jam. The downside of this is that my skin takes a real beating on these moves, and working that section in so many laps caused a good hole to form.
Once the hole occured, working the problem became pointless because the handholds became painful. So I knocked that on the head and walked up the hill to join those on the weedkiller traverse.
I managed to do 5 good laps of this problem, always getting to (but not completing) the very final move to the incut jug. Every time I fell was because I didn't have the juice to commit to that last big pull, or the get in a better body position without letting go. I even got strait back on after one drop, and made it to the top jug.
From this I have realised some great progression, which coupled with time at Malham recently has made me a happy and focussed climber. You just need to ignore the sneering grit enthusiasts who will spend years punting to the 7a - b level, and just get on with climbing/training. And for those who haven't got the time to climb 24/7, training does seem to be worth the 30 - 45 mins a session it costs.
So I need to sort out a bit of bicep strength, one-arm deadhang slopers / v.slopey pinches, and start to really maintain and reduce time between harder problems. 7mins rest per go on powerband felt just about right, with 15 mins every 10 - 15 goes.
Monday will be a rest day, due to other commitments.
Tuesday will be one-arm deadhangs on the good beastmaker slopers. Classic 7on 3 off 6 sets.
Wednesday will be working on the harder indoor problems i.e. blue/yellow/white (and some top-end oranges). Limited rest for difficulty, 3 - 4 mins per attempt (4 goes at dogging a move with 45s rest between counts as one attempt in this model). 5 - 10 mins rest per 20 laps.
Thursday will be light volume and an easy lockoff session.
Friday is work, followed by the indoor boulder comp. Not to fussed, but will be good to chat to some of the better locals that I don't see so often. Plus free beer.
Saturday is work and rest.
Sunday is flexible, but work starts at 00:30 Sunday night / Monday Morning for a few hours.
The rest of Monday will probably be spent resting/doing uni work, and I may go to the wall but it isn't very likely.
The rest of the week will see a similar pattern I expect, except Friday will be a climbing day, Saturday will be rest and then should be out with Zippy on Sunday, either at Malham or at the Tor.
Coincidently, it seems that the final aim at Malham for the year 'something stupid' 7b(+really) is pretty soaked at the moment. In the instance this is the case and we show up to Malham that day, I will work on the upper part of Seventh Ardvark, into the hole on Bat Route, which from the ground is an 8b link. 4 extra moves on top of the 7b... a Font 7b+ boulder problem?
We will see...
Coincidently, I am going to start looking more at brain training for Focus. I want to develop myself better mentally, to just switch off from everything outside of the specific act of climbing this particular thing, so that I can be truly focussed and really improve. If you know of anything to help/guide this, please comment.
Also... I am starting to get psyched some more, which is always good.
Sunday, 2 November 2014
Well, it feels like time for an update
It even turns out that I didn't manage the last post, and it has sat in drafts in a sorry sort-of-started state.
So I went to Malham cove for three days with Zippy a couple weeks ago (before the trip to North Wales). I have been back twice since, and each time I seem to get some more mileage under my toes.
On the weekend trip:
I had never been climbing at Malham before, and had walked under it once ages ago. Thus, I had no idea what to expect. My fingers had sort-of healed up, and the ankle, but I haven't done a massive amount of climbing outdoors in ages. Particularly with how the summer went. Sometimes I think I just need to doss out for 3 months during a climbing season, and get good...
Anyway.
I basically spent three days top-roping/seconding the classic sport routes in the bottom of the 7s. Against the grain/Yosemite Wall
7th Ardvark
Rose Coronary
All great! 7th Ardvark took more time than the others, but suited my style and once I had found an intermediate gaston in the crux, it was over quickly. I struggled on 'something stupid', but managed to shock myself into flashing sections of it on the first touch.
I approached the weekend in an optimistic way, but with no expectations of preconceptions of glory.
I tried to take the 'what would I imagine Steve Mclure would do' mentality of cool, calm, collected, technical, preplanned and meticulous detail/precision to everything I tried (all be it on top rope). The approach to 'finding the ideal position where each move is as easy as possible', was bang on and made those three days a magical new and eye-opening experience. Malham had become (and still is) by far my favourite sport crag.
I left that long weekend with a renewed enthusiasm for climbing, and a want to train to get stronger. I will pick up technique and good movement/confidence as I go, but I need to focus on strength while I am still before my absolute peak.
I tried a few training sessions with various plans, but always felt too tired for the next 2 or 3 days to do anything worthwhile. Plus, I was eating properly. I think I need to write myself a new, more realistic plan that will let me do an hour a day, and build up towards split sessions over a long time.
I have been back to Malham twice since that weekend, and each time I have managed another three routes, including leading THE 6a+ this weekend. Although, my accuracy and technical quality has been dulled, in replacement for trying to pull harder. I also went this Saturday, feeling a bit sore and tired still from the previous Thursday. I need to sort this out and become reconditioned with more work. I also need to keep doing full stretching routines, as I am convinced they aid recovery speed/quality alot! Get on that yoga stretch thing at the end of your climbing session.
This does not solve the problem of loss of technique however. My next session at Malham, or even in the peak at Garage Butress etc, will mainly be focussing on body position. I will aim to find the best continuous body positions, using loads of drop-knee/Egyptian shenanigans, in order to technique and finger-strength my way up the wall, as opposed to pulling hard with ze arms. I am sure this is all dead obvious.
With my final year of university now into full swing, I feel I need to start really knuckling down and focussing of time management. I have been doing so, but I need to start factoring climbing into that management. So I plan, every day from Tuesday (and maybe tomorrow), to climb from 8 - 10. I will warm up for 30 mins, train for 30 mins and a reasonable intensity, project for 30 mins and then stretch and warm down. I will take time out from projecting if I have to, but my training will mainly be finger/core based on the wall, campus boarding, or maximal strength depending on the day and how I feel and what I have done previously.
I will post this plan up by Tuesday, and will explain why I chosen certain routines.
I have started to get out on the grit, now that it is coming into season. I will be spending time on the grit over the winter, for all the technique and footwork goodness. I am not all that bothered for shredding myself on some crap slopers, but it would be nice to potter about. I may even indulge in some easy trad, just the start becoming more well-rounded before the limestone season starts again next year.
I have been so busy as of late, that this blog hasn't been what I planned.
I will try and be more active on it, and start climbing more. This is just a very busy time in my life.
So I went to Malham cove for three days with Zippy a couple weeks ago (before the trip to North Wales). I have been back twice since, and each time I seem to get some more mileage under my toes.
On the weekend trip:
I had never been climbing at Malham before, and had walked under it once ages ago. Thus, I had no idea what to expect. My fingers had sort-of healed up, and the ankle, but I haven't done a massive amount of climbing outdoors in ages. Particularly with how the summer went. Sometimes I think I just need to doss out for 3 months during a climbing season, and get good...
Anyway.
I basically spent three days top-roping/seconding the classic sport routes in the bottom of the 7s. Against the grain/Yosemite Wall
7th Ardvark
Rose Coronary
All great! 7th Ardvark took more time than the others, but suited my style and once I had found an intermediate gaston in the crux, it was over quickly. I struggled on 'something stupid', but managed to shock myself into flashing sections of it on the first touch.
I approached the weekend in an optimistic way, but with no expectations of preconceptions of glory.
I tried to take the 'what would I imagine Steve Mclure would do' mentality of cool, calm, collected, technical, preplanned and meticulous detail/precision to everything I tried (all be it on top rope). The approach to 'finding the ideal position where each move is as easy as possible', was bang on and made those three days a magical new and eye-opening experience. Malham had become (and still is) by far my favourite sport crag.
I left that long weekend with a renewed enthusiasm for climbing, and a want to train to get stronger. I will pick up technique and good movement/confidence as I go, but I need to focus on strength while I am still before my absolute peak.
I tried a few training sessions with various plans, but always felt too tired for the next 2 or 3 days to do anything worthwhile. Plus, I was eating properly. I think I need to write myself a new, more realistic plan that will let me do an hour a day, and build up towards split sessions over a long time.
I have been back to Malham twice since that weekend, and each time I have managed another three routes, including leading THE 6a+ this weekend. Although, my accuracy and technical quality has been dulled, in replacement for trying to pull harder. I also went this Saturday, feeling a bit sore and tired still from the previous Thursday. I need to sort this out and become reconditioned with more work. I also need to keep doing full stretching routines, as I am convinced they aid recovery speed/quality alot! Get on that yoga stretch thing at the end of your climbing session.
This does not solve the problem of loss of technique however. My next session at Malham, or even in the peak at Garage Butress etc, will mainly be focussing on body position. I will aim to find the best continuous body positions, using loads of drop-knee/Egyptian shenanigans, in order to technique and finger-strength my way up the wall, as opposed to pulling hard with ze arms. I am sure this is all dead obvious.
With my final year of university now into full swing, I feel I need to start really knuckling down and focussing of time management. I have been doing so, but I need to start factoring climbing into that management. So I plan, every day from Tuesday (and maybe tomorrow), to climb from 8 - 10. I will warm up for 30 mins, train for 30 mins and a reasonable intensity, project for 30 mins and then stretch and warm down. I will take time out from projecting if I have to, but my training will mainly be finger/core based on the wall, campus boarding, or maximal strength depending on the day and how I feel and what I have done previously.
I will post this plan up by Tuesday, and will explain why I chosen certain routines.
I have started to get out on the grit, now that it is coming into season. I will be spending time on the grit over the winter, for all the technique and footwork goodness. I am not all that bothered for shredding myself on some crap slopers, but it would be nice to potter about. I may even indulge in some easy trad, just the start becoming more well-rounded before the limestone season starts again next year.
I have been so busy as of late, that this blog hasn't been what I planned.
I will try and be more active on it, and start climbing more. This is just a very busy time in my life.
Sunday, 5 October 2014
Mapping the road to success... Assuming i succeed
My (modified) map to relative success
I have to assume I will be successful in climbing, but what it successful? What does it mean?
I am sure that definition will change over time with goals and experience.
For the moment, I think success for me is enjoying the process of developing and improving.
This post (which I will change over time) will be a roadmap towards my climbing goals. I may well add more branches as my interest changes. I will try and make a matrix map.
Green for Done
Blue For In Progress
Red for goal
Friday, 5 September 2014
Tis the change of season...
and everyone is getting ill.
I am already at stage two of manflu, when the cold heads from my throat to my chest and plays havock.
Anyway
On UKB there is some silly thread about the effect of running on climbing. I do not think (as far as I know) that anyone is really good enough at climbing in the world, for running to really have an adverse effect, under the caveat that you are used to both climbing and running, and know how to manage the volume and intensity of both activities to make them work together.
With the longest sentence over, the best thing to come out of this thread IMO was someone posting this link to an interview with the legend that is Ben Moon. All of his suggestions make sense. Although his thing about goals opposes my opinion, they kind of fit together if you take his advice as my comment of 'managing the steps along the way'.
One of the unifying elements I seem to have found from speaking to and listening to or reading interviews from all the best climbers is, they all seem to give the really obvious (and often concise) advice that you probably needed to hear. Dave Macleods 9 out of 10 and most other training resources I have come across that people seem to think work, all pretty much offer that sensible and obvious advice that you generally need someone to tell you.
This is the advice that you hear and think, 'That makes so much sense, and if I stick to that for at least a while then maybe it will work for me'. Not the kind of advice that says, "maybe this element of science taken from another source can be applied, and this will happen if you do these things" and similar.
What is great or interesting about this unifying coincidence?
The mindset of successful climbers.
Some of the best climbers seem to have incredibly analytical minds. This advice is garnered with the consideration of all the systematically equatable aspects within the given problem, and boiled down into often concise results. A good example would be Dave Macleods 'get over falling' part of 9 out of 10, or Ben Moons 'Be patient and let it happen' and 'It's not good if you are not happy'.
Those dead obvious things which, are so obvious that you already knew, but someone needs to remind you of.
I am putting this here to remind myself of these simple pieces of advice, that I just need to remind myself of every once in a while.
I am already at stage two of manflu, when the cold heads from my throat to my chest and plays havock.
Anyway
 |
| Pictures of people climbing some things |
With the longest sentence over, the best thing to come out of this thread IMO was someone posting this link to an interview with the legend that is Ben Moon. All of his suggestions make sense. Although his thing about goals opposes my opinion, they kind of fit together if you take his advice as my comment of 'managing the steps along the way'.
One of the unifying elements I seem to have found from speaking to and listening to or reading interviews from all the best climbers is, they all seem to give the really obvious (and often concise) advice that you probably needed to hear. Dave Macleods 9 out of 10 and most other training resources I have come across that people seem to think work, all pretty much offer that sensible and obvious advice that you generally need someone to tell you.
This is the advice that you hear and think, 'That makes so much sense, and if I stick to that for at least a while then maybe it will work for me'. Not the kind of advice that says, "maybe this element of science taken from another source can be applied, and this will happen if you do these things" and similar.
What is great or interesting about this unifying coincidence?
The mindset of successful climbers.
Some of the best climbers seem to have incredibly analytical minds. This advice is garnered with the consideration of all the systematically equatable aspects within the given problem, and boiled down into often concise results. A good example would be Dave Macleods 'get over falling' part of 9 out of 10, or Ben Moons 'Be patient and let it happen' and 'It's not good if you are not happy'.
Those dead obvious things which, are so obvious that you already knew, but someone needs to remind you of.
I am putting this here to remind myself of these simple pieces of advice, that I just need to remind myself of every once in a while.
- LITTLE AND OFTEN
- ITS NOT GOOD IF YOU ARE NOT HAPPY
- BE PATIENT, LET IT HAPPEN
- KNOW WHAT YOU WANT TO DO AND WORK FOR IT
- TAKE FALLS, LEAVE YOUR EGO AT THE FLOOR
- VIEW PROBLEMS ANALYTICALLY - IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, TRY SOMETHING ELSE
- HARDER DOESN'T ALWAYS CLASS AS SOMETHING ELSE
- DON'T KEEP TRYING THE SAME THINGS THAT DO NOT WORK RIGHT NOW
- 1MIN REST PER HARD MOVE
- 8 HOURS OF SLEEP FOR SUCCESS
- BIG SYSTEMS ARE MADE OF MANY TINY COMPONENTS, YOU CAN MAKE A CPU FROM NAND GATES IF YOU WANT
- THINK CONFIDENT CLIMB CONFIDENT, THINK SHIT CLIMB SHIT
- A TRAINING SESSIONS SHOULD BE PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY HARD - ENJOY SUFFERING
I will try and add more over time.
Saturday, 23 August 2014
An apt time for goal review?
Goals, and what they mean.
Every year I seem to watch (or go to) Reading Festival and stand in awe, wishing I had stuck with music school and had a chance of ever gracing the stage. I then realise that was a ridiculous thing to think, and feel slight envy towards those who have managed to get there while I am stuck here (wherever that is). Goals are a necessary evil in this world, forever dragging you in one (or many) direction(s), until you (might possibly) get there, at which point you realise the goal wasn't far enough and you need to aim higher. The flip side being you never make the goal, get lost or otherwise move in another direction. Is that true failure, or reaching towards your full potential in another medium?
Lets go back to the start, and take a personal comparison between my working and climbing careers.
 |
| In the early days |
Where it started.
I started with no direction, not a clue of where to go or where I wanted to end up.
I did however work (bar) at a venue which was down a sound engineer, and with the support of a few local professionals, started mixing bands.
 |
| At my first venue |
 |
| One of my first grit climbs |
 |
| One of my first A grades |
Present day; I am 3 or so venues better off and about to enter the final year of my degree, BSc Sound, Light & Live Event Technology at Derby University. I have been working over the summer at my first hire company (excluding freelance at On! in Notts), which has mostly been staging and roof system work. This isn't really my goal, but is a step somewhere towards the general direction I want to go to.
At some point I decided my goal was to become a sound engineer, which is a bit of a rubbish goal as it isn't very specific. I could have called it quits after about 6 months and said 'goal accomplished'. I have since made my goals more specific.
I then decided I want to work at a larger venue, and accomplished that, although not as a sound engineer directly. Having mixed a few larger events, I still do not class this as an accomplished goal. It was however superseded, when I decided I want to work as a system tech (ideally) or a mixing engineer for a larger production company (Skan, SSE, Adlib etc etc). If I accomplished this goal, I would want to go on a few tours and that would be good stuff. This goal is certainly still unaccomplished, but not totally impossible.
To get to the larger production company, I decided (with the persuasion of my 'then' mentor) to go a study a scientific degree in this field. From where I started (having missed out an intensely large proportion of the story) I am a very very long way into the journey, but infinitesimally small when compared to the goal and path I lay out before myself. It is important to remember that all things are generally made out of much smaller steps, like a cpu and logic gates. However, I still find myself wondering why I am not there yet.
If it serves for nothing else, starting the degree changed how I make, view and evaluate goals as well as view progression. I always need to remind myself that there are many steps on any road.
 |
| Hard at work. This was the most complex system I have worked on. A 16 channel surround sound system at Derby Theatre. |
Climbing
With the start of my degree I started climbing. In the beginning my goal was to get to the top of the easy problems at the local climbing wall. When I could eventually do that (by this point I was hooked and climbing 4 days a week after uni), I decided I wanted climb everything and to learn to lead, and my then girlfriend taught me how to lead. I progressed through the local indoor problems fairly quickly.
Next up I wanted to climb slightly better than the best locals at the wall. Unfortunately time is a killer and they had between 3 and 13 years experience on me, so although at a similar level, I am still not totally there. Although here is where diversifying comes in. I am not great at any form of climbing, but am better at peak lime than grit. They are mostly grit climbers (bar the total wads).
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| My first DWS |
As I progressed in climbing difficulty, my opinions, training methods and the people I climb with changed. Although in the peak I climb with people who are much much better than at the local walls, climbing harder than them is still a goal (but not the top priority, just an immature fantasy). I have gone from nothing, to Font 7B to 7A (drop due to injury and work commitments, plus I find I am not really trying hard enough recently).
My current way of making goals
My goals now sit at two distinct levels, attainable in the short to medium term, and pie in the sky.
Currently my climbing goals are:
(realistic)
Climb a peak limestone Font 7b+
Climb a peak grit 7b (boyager)
Climb a parisellas cave Font 7b+
Climb a peak sport 7c+ (Taylor Made)
(pie in the sky)
Climb Belly of the beast into Evolution/Mutation
Climb Violent New Breed
Climb Voyager
Climb Brandenburg Gate
Climb The Pink Star
Climb Hubble
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| Not trying hard enough |
(realistic)
Get a 1st for my degree
Get a job at one of the big audio companies (as listed above)
Finish my FPGA driven Audio over IP + PDM oversampling amplifier system
Do some work in venue design
Earn enough money to live comfortably and holiday, while still maintaining time to climb well.
(pie in the sky)
Get a job on 4 arena (or bigger) world tours (mixing or system tech)
Mix or system tech Reading festival headliner
Mix or system tech Glastonbury festival headliner
Design production package for 1 large dance festival
Design tour production package for 3 world tours
Design and build a bespoke large format stage/production package for one of the larger uk festivals
Design an arena sized venue (acoustics and technical equipment)
My goal at the end of the day, is to make enough money from what I am doing, to continue doing those things I love in good balance, with a solid future plan.
How Goals Shape You
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| This was once a goal, and is now an easy warm-up |
I figured that you need to make goals that you could attain. These goals are specifically chosen to give you that minor boost of confidence every time they are completed, and to keep you developing in the given task elements.
By the same token, if you do not make goals that are way beyond your maximum potential, then surely you will never reach your maximum potential. As you reach the next goal closest to your limit, the next goal you make will have a lightly smaller push in difficulty than the last, and you will enter an infinite loop in infinitesimally smaller developments until you stagnate. If you do everything in your power and dedicate 100% of what you have into hitting a major unattainable goal, and you manage all the smaller goals on the way successfully, you are far more likely to hit your maximum potential.
The trade off being that you may change direction, feel dissatisfied in the end and decide you wasted all your time. By then, if you look back at what you have accomplished, the sum of what has been accomplished will hopefully be more worth while than the end goal ever would have been. Its the bout the journey' philosophy with a specialisation twist.
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| Bigger stages, still small events |
How To Evaluate Goals
If you do not regularly evaluate the goals, your progress and upon completion, you won't know where you are going, or where you have come from, or where you are at.
If you complete a goal, then you may be onto a winner, but if you never evaluate, how will you know?
What worked? What didn't? You need to know. to continue.
If you do not complete, or choose to change a goal, is this because you are giving yourself the easy way out? Or is it because the goal isn't helping you progress?
I try to evaluate goals positively, a failure is feedback on how to move forwards, maybe in a slightly different direction.
What worked? What didn't? You need to know. to continue.
If you do not complete, or choose to change a goal, is this because you are giving yourself the easy way out? Or is it because the goal isn't helping you progress?
I try to evaluate goals positively, a failure is feedback on how to move forwards, maybe in a slightly different direction.
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| Things progress technically |
Having had minor success, maybe this doesn't work or isn't the most efficient method of goal making and success pursuit. Maybe it wont work, but it is all I have on the topic.
This is all a work in progress.
Know where you have come from, and look where you are going.
Goals for me are way-points and direction and feel great at some times and punishing at others.
I will leave my future self with this little tit-bit of cold hard realism. People may help you, but no one will do it for you. I you want it that much, endure the hard work and pain it takes.
Saturday, 16 August 2014
Font (late post)
Font was infact awesome.
I need to spend a couple months there though, getting used to the style.
It wouldn't hurt to be good at climbing either.
Here is to the future dream.
Like Zippy said; If you don't like font, you don't like climbing.
I need to spend a couple months there though, getting used to the style.
It wouldn't hurt to be good at climbing either.
Here is to the future dream.
Like Zippy said; If you don't like font, you don't like climbing.
Retrobolting Peak Limestone
This post comes courtesy of UKBouldering forums, as I was inspired by the thread of the same title as this post.
As an example (and probably a bad one) of the retrobolteverythingconvenienceclimbing generation of which everyone seems to fear, I do not think I would want many or any of the people in my kind of position to be anywhere near a cordless drill and a screwfix direct. Before I continue on this rant, I am by no means an authority and I make no mistake in assuming my opinion is worthwhile or entitled. I am surprised if you continue reading. I would like to think there are some good ideas and questions however.
For the lazier of us who sport climb and expect everything to be given to us (cleaned and bolted), count yourselves fortunate you trad climbers. You would have seen many poorly retro'd routes, due to peoples inexperience and lack of common sense. People like Gary Gibson are a small blessing in disguise, if you consider some of the alternative possibilities, like a bolt in the crux hold of your next Sunday jaunt.
Considering that if you do not want to spend time excavating dilapidated quarry walls, low grade peak lime sport climbing isn't particularly common in one focussed area. I can maybe think of two or three natural crags with enough low 6s to make a day out worthwhile (in the peak). Maybe I am a victim of not knowing where the routes are also...
That said, I do not know that many climbers in the convenience generation who bother leaving safety for fiddling with bits of wire in precarious positions. In fact, there aren't that many people I know who will trad climb, and climb on any form of peak limestone. Many newer climbers I seem to meet, stick inside or maybe go bouldering once in a blue moon. Do not fret just yet, there are plenty of us out there who might.
In reference to bolting much neglected trad routes, and the climbers who would rather they are left alone;
First of all, unless you own the crag (assuming crag owner trumps first ascensionist, and don't take this in offence, but for a point of philosophical discussion), why does your opinion hold sway? By the same token, what right does a potential bolter have? How does this effect if I get a say in if something should be bolted? What gives anyone else the right to give someone else the right, or deny that? Circumstance sucks.
As a member of the BMC, and having visited a few peak area meets, I still haven't had the opportunity to vote on retro-bolting that obscure route you may have heard of once or never... If I am keen to go and bolt something that has not been touched for 20 years with rotting in-situ slings, how do I even get to propose it? Surely as a member of a cohesive and inclusive community of climbers (all kinds), I should be able to easily access the means to put this to a debate and fair vote... I will not spark a debate on teaching people to bolt. That should be left for the professionals to teach their prodigies.
But it doesn't work that way, does it? Particularly if Robert the brother of the first ascentionists mother who failed on the route once 21 years ago, has qualms with this route being bolted because he couldn't do it then and still cannot now... Then again Florence, who would really enjoy this route if it were bolted, knows nothing of the route or the forum within which to get involved in such a debate as to it and her future. Also, why did Phil have the right to go and ascend this piece of rock in the first place? Surely It was my birth right and he got there 30 years before I had a chance... It can all get silly quite quickly.
See the problem... If someone who tries (key word) to get involved with the BMC local crew doesn't know...
That, and the fact that a few of the people I know who do retro-bolt, are not at all bothered about the peak area meetings... Why would they be? People who spend more time moaning then adventuring would eat them for breakfast, all for putting a bolt in something they would probably never touch anyway, because it is dirty and chossy.
I would also like to mention at this point, that any provision for the rights of retrobolting some things, should also be given to removing bolts from this by the same arm. For example, if someone poorly bolted a peak lime trad classic, there should be a discussion and vote on the removal of said bolts. Surely?
And then, who would bolt and de-bolt the crags?
I digress...
In the instance of in-situ or fixed gear that has degraded beyond use, is it not worth replacing these parts in order to restore safety and access. Just because you like to risk your own life on dodgy in-situ gear, why should I have to risk mine to enjoy the same moves up the wall?
As for retroing starred classics and fully trad crags;
Obviously you would want to follow a community consensus, as many individuals may not 'get' why you would or would not want to bolt something sensitive. Surely more widespread and inclusive methods of voting should be put together, in order to make voting legitimate. Balot boxes perhaps? Well, it worked for the miners anyway...
It would be a well thought out plan, to ensure a rock solid, easily accessible and fair system is in place for these things, before my generation comes along a ruins everything, or doesn't get involved at all. How many students turned up to your last area meeting?
Either way...
Maybe the process of vetting and controlling peoples actions is not constructive, conclusive and inclusive enough to even will the bolters to get involved in the first place. If you do not get that where it needs to be, how can you expect the system to work? You can only complain if you are willing to try and fix the problem correctly.
Imo, arguing with self-professed 'trad climbers' is much like arguing with the hold you struggle to grip onto. I just hope this argument can actually be resolved sensibly, before the useless future comes along and really makes a mess.
I would like to learn how to bolt things, and more importantly, how to remove and replace bolts and follow the ethics.
At least then I can do my part to maintain the crags.
The problem is, I am all for retrobolting certain routes when it suits myself and the community.
Is This Right?
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| Santiago 7a(+ imo) |
As an example (and probably a bad one) of the retrobolteverythingconvenienceclimbing generation of which everyone seems to fear, I do not think I would want many or any of the people in my kind of position to be anywhere near a cordless drill and a screwfix direct. Before I continue on this rant, I am by no means an authority and I make no mistake in assuming my opinion is worthwhile or entitled. I am surprised if you continue reading. I would like to think there are some good ideas and questions however.
For the lazier of us who sport climb and expect everything to be given to us (cleaned and bolted), count yourselves fortunate you trad climbers. You would have seen many poorly retro'd routes, due to peoples inexperience and lack of common sense. People like Gary Gibson are a small blessing in disguise, if you consider some of the alternative possibilities, like a bolt in the crux hold of your next Sunday jaunt.
Considering that if you do not want to spend time excavating dilapidated quarry walls, low grade peak lime sport climbing isn't particularly common in one focussed area. I can maybe think of two or three natural crags with enough low 6s to make a day out worthwhile (in the peak). Maybe I am a victim of not knowing where the routes are also...
That said, I do not know that many climbers in the convenience generation who bother leaving safety for fiddling with bits of wire in precarious positions. In fact, there aren't that many people I know who will trad climb, and climb on any form of peak limestone. Many newer climbers I seem to meet, stick inside or maybe go bouldering once in a blue moon. Do not fret just yet, there are plenty of us out there who might.
In reference to bolting much neglected trad routes, and the climbers who would rather they are left alone;
First of all, unless you own the crag (assuming crag owner trumps first ascensionist, and don't take this in offence, but for a point of philosophical discussion), why does your opinion hold sway? By the same token, what right does a potential bolter have? How does this effect if I get a say in if something should be bolted? What gives anyone else the right to give someone else the right, or deny that? Circumstance sucks.
As a member of the BMC, and having visited a few peak area meets, I still haven't had the opportunity to vote on retro-bolting that obscure route you may have heard of once or never... If I am keen to go and bolt something that has not been touched for 20 years with rotting in-situ slings, how do I even get to propose it? Surely as a member of a cohesive and inclusive community of climbers (all kinds), I should be able to easily access the means to put this to a debate and fair vote... I will not spark a debate on teaching people to bolt. That should be left for the professionals to teach their prodigies.
But it doesn't work that way, does it? Particularly if Robert the brother of the first ascentionists mother who failed on the route once 21 years ago, has qualms with this route being bolted because he couldn't do it then and still cannot now... Then again Florence, who would really enjoy this route if it were bolted, knows nothing of the route or the forum within which to get involved in such a debate as to it and her future. Also, why did Phil have the right to go and ascend this piece of rock in the first place? Surely It was my birth right and he got there 30 years before I had a chance... It can all get silly quite quickly.
See the problem... If someone who tries (key word) to get involved with the BMC local crew doesn't know...
That, and the fact that a few of the people I know who do retro-bolt, are not at all bothered about the peak area meetings... Why would they be? People who spend more time moaning then adventuring would eat them for breakfast, all for putting a bolt in something they would probably never touch anyway, because it is dirty and chossy.
I would also like to mention at this point, that any provision for the rights of retrobolting some things, should also be given to removing bolts from this by the same arm. For example, if someone poorly bolted a peak lime trad classic, there should be a discussion and vote on the removal of said bolts. Surely?
And then, who would bolt and de-bolt the crags?
I digress...
In the instance of in-situ or fixed gear that has degraded beyond use, is it not worth replacing these parts in order to restore safety and access. Just because you like to risk your own life on dodgy in-situ gear, why should I have to risk mine to enjoy the same moves up the wall?
As for retroing starred classics and fully trad crags;
Obviously you would want to follow a community consensus, as many individuals may not 'get' why you would or would not want to bolt something sensitive. Surely more widespread and inclusive methods of voting should be put together, in order to make voting legitimate. Balot boxes perhaps? Well, it worked for the miners anyway...
It would be a well thought out plan, to ensure a rock solid, easily accessible and fair system is in place for these things, before my generation comes along a ruins everything, or doesn't get involved at all. How many students turned up to your last area meeting?
Either way...
Maybe the process of vetting and controlling peoples actions is not constructive, conclusive and inclusive enough to even will the bolters to get involved in the first place. If you do not get that where it needs to be, how can you expect the system to work? You can only complain if you are willing to try and fix the problem correctly.
Imo, arguing with self-professed 'trad climbers' is much like arguing with the hold you struggle to grip onto. I just hope this argument can actually be resolved sensibly, before the useless future comes along and really makes a mess.
I would like to learn how to bolt things, and more importantly, how to remove and replace bolts and follow the ethics.
At least then I can do my part to maintain the crags.
The problem is, I am all for retrobolting certain routes when it suits myself and the community.
Is This Right?
I fail at blogging
But that is no surprise.
All this work I have been doing over the summer has been a really good experience and physically difficult (increase in base level strength success). But now it is time to return to more climbing at academia. I haven't really had time to do much more than work, a little climbing and a little research into my final year topic.
Climbing has taken a bit of a back seat. I took a couple trips to Cheedale, and started a couple projects including 'This is the Sea', at the cornice. Otherwise climbing once or twice a week at the local climbing centre, Big Rock in Milton Keynes. The project board there is worth a punt, if you live local.
In retrospect this is probably a good thing, as slow recovery might mean avoiding further injury.
I am still no where near as fit and strong as last summer, but there is no surprise.
Today I start my foray into the worlds of Python and Java. Armed with a pair of Raspberry Pis, some research and confidence, I am finally beginning my proof of concept for my Final Major Project.
I will be making multi-channel audio over IP modules for use with beam steering line arrays.
Proof of concept using Raspberry Pis, and hopefully the final product will use a pair of FPGAs with Ethernet and a server.
The dream is to make a super light weight amplifier/DSP/AOIP module that you bolt on the pack of whatever your favourite pro-audio loudspeaker. And using a particular piece of software, having ultimate control over where the sound goes for the purest even listener experience.
My backup project is hire-house database software, because rental desk is shit if you don't license for a fortune.
Watch This Space.
All this work I have been doing over the summer has been a really good experience and physically difficult (increase in base level strength success). But now it is time to return to more climbing at academia. I haven't really had time to do much more than work, a little climbing and a little research into my final year topic.
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| I have been (learning to, and) building things like this, as well as audio engineering |
Climbing has taken a bit of a back seat. I took a couple trips to Cheedale, and started a couple projects including 'This is the Sea', at the cornice. Otherwise climbing once or twice a week at the local climbing centre, Big Rock in Milton Keynes. The project board there is worth a punt, if you live local.
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| Grunge from 'This Is The Sea' |
In retrospect this is probably a good thing, as slow recovery might mean avoiding further injury.
I am still no where near as fit and strong as last summer, but there is no surprise.
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| Loud DJ Mons |
Today I start my foray into the worlds of Python and Java. Armed with a pair of Raspberry Pis, some research and confidence, I am finally beginning my proof of concept for my Final Major Project.
I will be making multi-channel audio over IP modules for use with beam steering line arrays.
Proof of concept using Raspberry Pis, and hopefully the final product will use a pair of FPGAs with Ethernet and a server.
The dream is to make a super light weight amplifier/DSP/AOIP module that you bolt on the pack of whatever your favourite pro-audio loudspeaker. And using a particular piece of software, having ultimate control over where the sound goes for the purest even listener experience.
My backup project is hire-house database software, because rental desk is shit if you don't license for a fortune.
Watch This Space.
Wednesday, 25 June 2014
Getting back on it
There are loads of posts I have attempted to make over the last months or whatever.
Now that summer is in full swing and I am down in the dreaded Milton Keynes, I suppose it is time to think about training and bits.
I have been working on the finger with the splint the hospital gave me.
I think with the increase in climbing volume that is occurring, the finger might become more supple and the experiment more successful.
Now that summer is in full swing and I am down in the dreaded Milton Keynes, I suppose it is time to think about training and bits.
I have been working on the finger with the splint the hospital gave me.
I think with the increase in climbing volume that is occurring, the finger might become more supple and the experiment more successful.
I am also coming towards the end of the first part of the strength cycle on Barrows plan.
I feel knackered all the time.
This is due to the warehouse work I have been doing for the last 1.5 months.
I haven't really done a huge amount of strength 'training' because this job is effectively strength training.
Carrying large heavy things through the warehouse, to and from site and of course, building temporary demountable structures...
Carrying large heavy things through the warehouse, to and from site and of course, building temporary demountable structures...
Its all hard work.
I get the feeling this summer is going to be more about the baseline strength and fitness I achieve at work, and keeping to fingers strong with trips to the local wall and peak lime.
I have started climbing at the local wall, 2 or 3 nights a week.
The bouldering is ok. I tried an autobelay on routes for the first time today, and the routes SUCK at the 6b+-6c+ range.
Its like the setters have never climbed that grade, and therefore have no idea of how to make a route feel that hard without it being shit or awkward...
Then again, it is indoors in MK. Not ideal.
In the bouldering area they have a 35ish project board. I will mostly use this when training (if at all) there.
Then again, it is indoors in MK. Not ideal.
In the bouldering area they have a 35ish project board. I will mostly use this when training (if at all) there.
I have been out on peak lime recently.
Once at the embankment (totally classic), and out to Rubicon.
Bumped into Seb Grieve, the man and legend.
He totally put me to shame... I was having a bad session though.
Need new climbing shoes as well.
Another pair of Blancos, and maybe some dragons. Not sure. And some Boostics.
But yes, I admit I have been slacking this year.
NO MORE!
It is time to get back on it!
Sunday, 2 February 2014
3 weeks(ish) on: changing things up a bit
So, I stuck pretty close with my plan, and my finger is still a bit swollen.
Learning from the mistakes of overworking during rehab, I have decided to take a different approach.
Its tough being an idiot.
I went to the Physiotherapist at Uni. He confirmed that I may have slightly damaged the collateral ligaments, A2, A4 (and maybe some A3) pulleys and the FDS tendon a little. Nothing is too seriously damaged, because I can still move everything ok, but the finger doesn't totally flex as far as the others, still putting this down to the swelling. The finger isn't large but there is definitely pressure there. The Physiotherapist said 4 weeks of recovery to 90%~, this was on the 24th. I may have over-worked it though and inhibited the healing a little.
More contrast baths and massaging of the area may be necessary, as well as getting some Volteral or similar. Need to go to the pharmacy this week. It seems everyone around me is also catching some grim cold, so I am re-doubling my efforts to get plenty of vitamins and good proteins. Woop!
I have also started using my house-mates powerball again. Seems like good stuff.
The game plan for the next couple weeks:
I have fixed the bicycle, so cycling every morning to/from uni. Also maybe the odd morning sprint session, 8mins sprint by 7mins recovery, twice before the morning shower. Its time to start sorting my stamina/breathing/circulation business, in a way that is easier to control then climbing. Watch this space for a post.
Some light fingerboarding focusing on right hand a little. Pullups on a bar, and one arm lock offs on a bar.
I have a pair of weights, and have started using them. Watch this space for a post on increasing recruitment.
At least one session of climbing a week, but purely for movement diversity and keeping in the swing.
Another crap post, i know. Academia coming soon!
Monday, 13 January 2014
Where I am at the moment
*Disclaimer: This will hopefully be the least interesting post I put up. It is more of a point of reference for following posts. You have been warned*
I am currently Injured.
I am starting this blog, in day 2 of my first 'real' finger injury. Alas, I climbed when my body was over tired. I crossed through on a shallow-ish pocket (weighted it, not shock-loaded) at The Works, and heard two very distinct crunches come from my fingers.
I have always been pretty careful, and have seen real gains in finger strength since the summer. I tend to warm up well before I get on the wall, and tend to work through the difficulties on the wall until I feel able to pull hard. As of late however, I have been lazy and therefore stupid. A heavy session on Thursday at The Climbing Station with some fairly good success, led me to be too tired and 1 rest day can't have been enough.
Anyway:
Self diagnosed, but I appear to have damage the ringer finger on my left hand. The bruising and swelling (surprisingly minor), suggest I have damage the A2 and (possibly) A4 pulleys as well as the FDP tendon.
I am currently Injured.
I am starting this blog, in day 2 of my first 'real' finger injury. Alas, I climbed when my body was over tired. I crossed through on a shallow-ish pocket (weighted it, not shock-loaded) at The Works, and heard two very distinct crunches come from my fingers.
I have always been pretty careful, and have seen real gains in finger strength since the summer. I tend to warm up well before I get on the wall, and tend to work through the difficulties on the wall until I feel able to pull hard. As of late however, I have been lazy and therefore stupid. A heavy session on Thursday at The Climbing Station with some fairly good success, led me to be too tired and 1 rest day can't have been enough.
Anyway:
Self diagnosed, but I appear to have damage the ringer finger on my left hand. The bruising and swelling (surprisingly minor), suggest I have damage the A2 and (possibly) A4 pulleys as well as the FDP tendon.
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| The bruising is there. Its pretty subtle in this picture, but it is under the skin/flesh. You can also see the swelling. |
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| Thanks Rock+Run http://www.rockrun.com/wp/finger-injuries-and-treatment/ |
When Uni starts back up again next week, I intend to see a Physiotherapist for some advice.
There is a ton of on line articles about finger injuries, and there are some fairly common themes about how to deal with them. I will endeavour to make a bibliography post for finger injuries, some time in the near future. They all seem to say pretty similar things however, and this is my recovery game plan:
There is a ton of on line articles about finger injuries, and there are some fairly common themes about how to deal with them. I will endeavour to make a bibliography post for finger injuries, some time in the near future. They all seem to say pretty similar things however, and this is my recovery game plan:
- Rest after the initial injury, until pain and swelling has gone and full range of movement has returned: 1-3 week is a fairly standard time-frame mentioned.
Do not do the next parts until your finger is ready. If you start doing the next parts and feel pain, stop. Immediately. - Start climbing soon as you can, but keep it easy and keep it open handed. No half crimping. Lots of people talk about not being able to crimp. I currently find that my finger closes fairly well (although slightly inhibited by the minor swelling), but is slightly sore when I stretch it out fully (I expect minor over-extension of the joint). I suspect that the joint may have been slightly damaged when I pulled on the pocket.
- Ice Ice Baby! Well, Ice water. Regularly (twice a day) rest the injury in cold water with 5 or so ice cubes, for about 30mins at a time. Make sure fingers are flushed red after about 10 mins, or the water is too cold (Dave Macleod. Legend). Another thing that has been discussed is contrast baths, though I cannot find any academic papers to back that up, I might give it a try in week 2.
- Massages. Twice a day(ish), massage the injury in the direction of the fibres. Go until the movement is good, and the tissue is warm (I think they said). This is to make sure the fibres repair well, with minimal scar tissue.
- Stretch! Possibly the reason I haven't had this injury sooner. Stretch regularly. Stretch the forearms and fingers initially, and then do full body stretching in a pseudo-yoga style. Its all connected, so they say, and I put massive stock in stretching correctly to ensure the whole body is balanced and pointing in the correct direction.
- Build back up over time. It may take months, but I would rather have a few months of no crimping, then never achieve my goals, which this year, will involve some tough crimps. My plan after the first few weeks/months of being back on climbing, is to start deadhangs with the injured finger included. All open hand, and initially with assistance until I feel I can progress slowly. In the mean time, I intend to keep my other fingers in check, by exercising and stretching them thoroughly and regularly.
I took a fall last February while bouldering, which left me with a sprained ankle. I did the rehab, but it is still quite weak. I plan to start doing the balance practice again, and throw in some token 1 legged squats
So, the plan in time frame (post return to climbing):
Monday
Full Rest
Icing
Tuesday
(Climb if I can)
Pushups 30s on 30s off 5 different positions. Make times longer over time.
Sit ups 30s on 30 s off
Dead hangs (eventually encores) 7 on 3 off.
Planks 2mins on 2 mins off. Front, Right side, Left Side, Front left leg, Front right leg
Pull Ups 30s on 30s off 5 different positions. Equal rest to work time.
Ski Squats - 2mins on 2mins off.
Front Levers. 5 per set, 5 sets (to introduce me to the exercise).
Loop until all parts of each exercise have been done.
5 loops in all.
Stretch
Icing and massaging
Wednesday
Rest
Icing
Assisted 1 legged squats
Balancing
Thursday
Jogging/Hill reps, running is bad for you, but I need some cardio.
Climb
Friday
Rest
Assisted 1 legged squats
Balancing
Saturday
Climb
Sunday
Climb
Assisted 1 legged squats
Balancing
I have been thinking about starting to use weights for a little while now, but haven't committed to buying a set. I want to avoid bulking up as much as possible, and get leaner more than bigger at the moment.
So far, the hardest boulder I have done is Font 7B (soft), and the hardest route I have done is french 7a. I am capable of harder routes, and I hope to prove this year, coming close to doing 'Out of my boots' (7c+), towards the end of last summer. I was waiting for the good conditions, but very close to climbing Marks Roof (7B) at Gardom's Edge after (half an hour of work). Oh well. Shit happens.
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