It even turns out that I didn't manage the last post, and it has sat in drafts in a sorry sort-of-started state.
So I went to Malham cove for three days with Zippy a couple weeks ago (before the trip to North Wales). I have been back twice since, and each time I seem to get some more mileage under my toes.
On the weekend trip:
I had never been climbing at Malham before, and had walked under it once ages ago. Thus, I had no idea what to expect. My fingers had sort-of healed up, and the ankle, but I haven't done a massive amount of climbing outdoors in ages. Particularly with how the summer went. Sometimes I think I just need to doss out for 3 months during a climbing season, and get good...
Anyway.
I basically spent three days top-roping/seconding the classic sport routes in the bottom of the 7s. Against the grain/Yosemite Wall
7th Ardvark
Rose Coronary
All great! 7th Ardvark took more time than the others, but suited my style and once I had found an intermediate gaston in the crux, it was over quickly. I struggled on 'something stupid', but managed to shock myself into flashing sections of it on the first touch.
I approached the weekend in an optimistic way, but with no expectations of preconceptions of glory.
I tried to take the 'what would I imagine Steve Mclure would do' mentality of cool, calm, collected, technical, preplanned and meticulous detail/precision to everything I tried (all be it on top rope). The approach to 'finding the ideal position where each move is as easy as possible', was bang on and made those three days a magical new and eye-opening experience. Malham had become (and still is) by far my favourite sport crag.
I left that long weekend with a renewed enthusiasm for climbing, and a want to train to get stronger. I will pick up technique and good movement/confidence as I go, but I need to focus on strength while I am still before my absolute peak.
I tried a few training sessions with various plans, but always felt too tired for the next 2 or 3 days to do anything worthwhile. Plus, I was eating properly. I think I need to write myself a new, more realistic plan that will let me do an hour a day, and build up towards split sessions over a long time.
I have been back to Malham twice since that weekend, and each time I have managed another three routes, including leading THE 6a+ this weekend. Although, my accuracy and technical quality has been dulled, in replacement for trying to pull harder. I also went this Saturday, feeling a bit sore and tired still from the previous Thursday. I need to sort this out and become reconditioned with more work. I also need to keep doing full stretching routines, as I am convinced they aid recovery speed/quality alot! Get on that yoga stretch thing at the end of your climbing session.
This does not solve the problem of loss of technique however. My next session at Malham, or even in the peak at Garage Butress etc, will mainly be focussing on body position. I will aim to find the best continuous body positions, using loads of drop-knee/Egyptian shenanigans, in order to technique and finger-strength my way up the wall, as opposed to pulling hard with ze arms. I am sure this is all dead obvious.
With my final year of university now into full swing, I feel I need to start really knuckling down and focussing of time management. I have been doing so, but I need to start factoring climbing into that management. So I plan, every day from Tuesday (and maybe tomorrow), to climb from 8 - 10. I will warm up for 30 mins, train for 30 mins and a reasonable intensity, project for 30 mins and then stretch and warm down. I will take time out from projecting if I have to, but my training will mainly be finger/core based on the wall, campus boarding, or maximal strength depending on the day and how I feel and what I have done previously.
I will post this plan up by Tuesday, and will explain why I chosen certain routines.
I have started to get out on the grit, now that it is coming into season. I will be spending time on the grit over the winter, for all the technique and footwork goodness. I am not all that bothered for shredding myself on some crap slopers, but it would be nice to potter about. I may even indulge in some easy trad, just the start becoming more well-rounded before the limestone season starts again next year.
I have been so busy as of late, that this blog hasn't been what I planned.
I will try and be more active on it, and start climbing more. This is just a very busy time in my life.
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