 |
| Santiago 7a(+ imo) |
As an example (and probably a bad one) of the retrobolteverythingconvenienceclimbing generation of which everyone seems to fear, I do not think I would want many or any of the people in my kind of position to be anywhere near a cordless drill and a screwfix direct. Before I continue on this rant, I am by no means an authority and I make no mistake in assuming my opinion is worthwhile or entitled. I am surprised if you continue reading. I would like to think there are some good ideas and questions however.
For the lazier of us who sport climb and expect everything to be given to us (cleaned and bolted), count yourselves fortunate you trad climbers. You would have seen many poorly retro'd routes, due to peoples inexperience and lack of common sense. People like Gary Gibson are a small blessing in disguise, if you consider some of the alternative possibilities, like a bolt in the crux hold of your next Sunday jaunt.
Considering that if you do not want to spend time excavating dilapidated quarry walls, low grade peak lime sport climbing isn't particularly common in one focussed area. I can maybe think of two or three natural crags with enough low 6s to make a day out worthwhile (in the peak). Maybe I am a victim of not knowing where the routes are also...
That said, I do not know that many climbers in the convenience generation who bother leaving safety for fiddling with bits of wire in precarious positions. In fact, there aren't that many people I know who will trad climb, and climb on any form of peak limestone. Many newer climbers I seem to meet, stick inside or maybe go bouldering once in a blue moon. Do not fret just yet, there are plenty of us out there who might.
In reference to bolting much neglected trad routes, and the climbers who would rather they are left alone;
First of all, unless you own the crag (assuming crag owner trumps first ascensionist, and don't take this in offence, but for a point of philosophical discussion), why does your opinion hold sway? By the same token, what right does a potential bolter have? How does this effect if I get a say in if something should be bolted? What gives anyone else the right to give someone else the right, or deny that? Circumstance sucks.
As a member of the BMC, and having visited a few peak area meets, I still haven't had the opportunity to vote on retro-bolting that obscure route you may have heard of once or never... If I am keen to go and bolt something that has not been touched for 20 years with rotting in-situ slings, how do I even get to propose it? Surely as a member of a cohesive and inclusive community of climbers (all kinds), I should be able to easily access the means to put this to a debate and fair vote... I will not spark a debate on teaching people to bolt. That should be left for the professionals to teach their prodigies.
But it doesn't work that way, does it? Particularly if Robert the brother of the first ascentionists mother who failed on the route once 21 years ago, has qualms with this route being bolted because he couldn't do it then and still cannot now... Then again Florence, who would really enjoy this route if it were bolted, knows nothing of the route or the forum within which to get involved in such a debate as to it and her future. Also, why did Phil have the right to go and ascend this piece of rock in the first place? Surely It was my birth right and he got there 30 years before I had a chance... It can all get silly quite quickly.
See the problem... If someone who tries (key word) to get involved with the BMC local crew doesn't know...
That, and the fact that a few of the people I know who do retro-bolt, are not at all bothered about the peak area meetings... Why would they be? People who spend more time moaning then adventuring would eat them for breakfast, all for putting a bolt in something they would probably never touch anyway, because it is dirty and chossy.
I would also like to mention at this point, that any provision for the rights of retrobolting some things, should also be given to removing bolts from this by the same arm. For example, if someone poorly bolted a peak lime trad classic, there should be a discussion and vote on the removal of said bolts. Surely?
And then, who would bolt and de-bolt the crags?
I digress...
In the instance of in-situ or fixed gear that has degraded beyond use, is it not worth replacing these parts in order to restore safety and access. Just because you like to risk your own life on dodgy in-situ gear, why should I have to risk mine to enjoy the same moves up the wall?
As for retroing starred classics and fully trad crags;
Obviously you would want to follow a community consensus, as many individuals may not 'get' why you would or would not want to bolt something sensitive. Surely more widespread and inclusive methods of voting should be put together, in order to make voting legitimate. Balot boxes perhaps? Well, it worked for the miners anyway...
It would be a well thought out plan, to ensure a rock solid, easily accessible and fair system is in place for these things, before my generation comes along a ruins everything, or doesn't get involved at all. How many students turned up to your last area meeting?
Either way...
Maybe the process of vetting and controlling peoples actions is not constructive, conclusive and inclusive enough to even will the bolters to get involved in the first place. If you do not get that where it needs to be, how can you expect the system to work? You can only complain if you are willing to try and fix the problem correctly.
Imo, arguing with self-professed 'trad climbers' is much like arguing with the hold you struggle to grip onto. I just hope this argument can actually be resolved sensibly, before the useless future comes along and really makes a mess.
I would like to learn how to bolt things, and more importantly, how to remove and replace bolts and follow the ethics.
At least then I can do my part to maintain the crags.
The problem is, I am all for retrobolting certain routes when it suits myself and the community.
Is This Right?
No comments:
Post a Comment