3 weeks(ish) on: changing things up a bit

So, I stuck pretty close with my plan, and my finger is still a bit swollen.

Learning from the mistakes of overworking during rehab, I have decided to take a different approach.
Its tough being an idiot.

I went to the Physiotherapist at Uni. He confirmed that I may have slightly damaged the collateral ligaments, A2, A4 (and maybe some A3) pulleys and the FDS tendon a little. Nothing is too seriously damaged, because I can still move everything ok, but the finger doesn't totally flex as far as the others, still putting this down to the swelling. The finger isn't large but there is definitely pressure there. The Physiotherapist said 4 weeks of recovery to 90%~, this was on the 24th. I may have over-worked it though and inhibited the healing a little.

More contrast baths and massaging of the area may be necessary, as well as getting some Volteral or similar. Need to go to the pharmacy this week. It seems everyone around me is also catching some grim cold, so I am re-doubling my efforts to get plenty of vitamins and good proteins. Woop!

I have also started using my house-mates powerball again. Seems like good stuff.

The game plan for the next couple weeks:
I have fixed the bicycle, so cycling every morning to/from uni. Also maybe the odd morning sprint session, 8mins sprint by 7mins recovery, twice before the morning shower. Its time to start sorting my stamina/breathing/circulation business, in a way that is easier to control then climbing. Watch this space for a post.

Some light fingerboarding focusing on right hand a little. Pullups on a bar, and one arm lock offs on a bar.

I have a pair of weights, and have started using them. Watch this space for a post on increasing recruitment.

At least one session of climbing a week, but purely for movement diversity and keeping in the swing.


Another crap post, i know. Academia coming soon!